首页 旅游攻略 云南行记:人生还想要怎样好的风景呢

云南行记:人生还想要怎样好的风景呢

云南地处中国西南边陲,横断山脉和云贵高原的地貌,让它成为一块发光的绿宝石,散发出无穷的魅力。白族舞蹈家杨丽萍主创的大型原生态歌舞,以曼妙质朴的舞姿勾勒出云南的婀娜剪影。今年暑假,我有幸踏上了这片热土,品读了这份激情。

初入云南,我们先去了大理。苍山、洱海、蝴蝶泉、崇圣寺三塔、电影《五朵金花》的故乡、金庸小说《天龙八部》中段誉的大理国……。大理,我向往已久的地方。大理古城古朴而幽静,城内流淌着清澈的叮咚溪水,,家家户户养花种树,花果并茂。天生丽质的白族导游金花笑吟吟地向我们介绍大理“风花雪月”的胜景:“大理的上关花,下关风,苍山雪,洱海月,构成大理‘四绝”,你们看我们白族姑娘的头饰就凝聚着风花雪月。”我们好奇地审视着:从帽檐儿缀下至胸前洁白的飘带,象征着风,白白的帽檐儿则是雪,雪下面一弯新月托着一圈鲜花。哦,好美的喻义。我在捕捉着白族人民创造的美。然而,白族“三道茶”却更让我们情牵神迷。在典型的白族喜州民居里,我们品味着白族历史悠长的“三道茶”。这第一道茶是“苦茶”,能止渴生津,消除疲劳;第二道茶为“甜茶”,能提神补气,神清气爽;第三道茶是“回味茶”,清雅之气,绵延无穷。白族的祖先们仿佛是用这“三道茶”告诫自己的子孙要“先甜后苦,勤劳才能有幸福”的人生之道。

很早就在历史课本上认识了三塔,崇圣寺三塔是大理的象征,是云南古代历史文化的象征。三塔造型奇特,挺拔秀丽,都是八角形空心砖塔,虽历经千年沧桑和风雨剥蚀,仍巍然屹立。登上崇圣寺新建的塔楼极目远眺,三塔像三柄古朴的宝剑直插蓝天,又像三根茁壮生长的春笋试与天比高。背景就是苍山洱海,苍山逶迤,洱海蜿蜒,苍山上云烟氤氲,变幻多姿,洱海像一块长形碧玉紧紧镶嵌在苍山脚下,波光闪闪。这是怎样一幅大气磅礴的水墨山水长卷啊!

汽车在洱海边的公路上疾驰,我贪婪地望着窗外渐渐远去的景色,山色如黛,袅袅云烟。民居的建筑风格都是以白色为基调,“粉墙画壁”是它的一大特色。一色的青瓦白墙,一色的飞檐斗拱,一色的雕梁画栋……清新淡雅、锺灵毓秀的水墨画卷一路展开来,让人从心底涌出想近距离触摸的冲动。难怪李清照会说“山光水色惹人亲,说不尽,无限好”。

这里的一街一巷、一砖一瓦,古朴自然,有如陈酿老酒一般,真是越看越有味道。我想,在这样一个风花雪月、山光水色之地,如果能够拥有一套自己的“住宅”,实在是一种福分,更是一种“诗意的栖居”。 我想起了仓央嘉措的一句诗:那一世,转山转水转佛塔,不为修来生,只为途中与你相见………

汉代李延年有歌云:“北方有佳人,绝世而独立。一顾倾人城,再顾倾人国。” 世界文化遗产丽江古城,就是这样一位倾国倾城的南国佳人。

丽江,一个充满阳光和诗意的名字。

站在古城大水车前的石桥上,眼望那一层层古色古香的纳西民居,依山傍水,错落别致。铺着五色石板的小街上行人摩肩接踵,熙熙攘攘;游客的脸上泛着幸福的霞光,这繁华的街市令人回味着昔日茶马古道的繁华与辉煌!我们仿佛循着茶马古道上淡淡的茶香走进了高原古老的历史画卷。桥下流水潺潺,,迂回萦绕。两岸纤纤垂柳,濡染着古城的素雅娴静。不远处玉龙雪山披着皑皑白雪,雍容端庄。“小桥、流水、人家、悠然见南山”的诗情画境扑面而来。

丽江最让人难忘的是玉龙雪山。看过海明威笔下〈乞力马扎罗的雪〉——非洲赤道线附近那座著名的雪山,云南的雪本不让人惊讶。然而看到玉龙雪山巍巍的矗在那儿,仿若高大的天神,心中的敬畏油然而生。玉龙雪山,真像一条披着冰雪银鳞的玉龙,在蓝天丽日下灿灿生光 。山顶云雾缭绕变幻,就像一位圣洁的仙女,临风玉立,衣袂飘然,不时撩起面纱,风情万种。闭了眼,恍若一梦千年,我感觉自己的灵魂飞上了玉龙雪山,我的身体,融进了玉龙雪山。

在玉龙雪山甘海子,世界上海拔最高3100米的实景演出剧场,我们观看了张艺谋导演的大型实景演出《印象·丽江》。演出以玉龙雪山为天然背景,用象征着云贵高原红土的红砂石砌成迂回艰险的“茶马古道”,构成360度的环形剧场,由500名来自纳西族、彝族、普米族、藏族、苗族等10个少数民族普通的当地农民倾力出演,这些有着黝黑皮肤的非专业演员,用他们最原生态的动作,最质朴的歌声,最滚烫的汗水,与天地共舞,与自然同声!他们浓烈的长发印证着他们永远是雪山的儿女,他们粗犷的雄性的嚎叫,她们尖声悠扬的歌声紧紧地环绕在雪山之峦,他们有玉龙雪山的护卫,他们有着雪一样自然的生命,令人敬畏。

《印象·丽江》是一场真正荡涤灵魂的视听盛宴,演出让每一个身临其境的人都感到巨大的心灵震撼。其中的主题曲《回家》令人回味无穷:

在这里每一天每一天

我们都在享受

大自然的洗礼,阳光的洗礼,雪与山的洗礼,水与草的洗礼

被黝黑的皮肤洗礼,被高亢的吼声洗礼,被直灼的目光洗礼

被粗糙的双手洗礼,被无邪的笑容洗礼

站在这里的我们

通体清澈透明,目光纯净

我们发现活着是如此真实美好

我们凭什么不去感恩生命……。

进入石林景区,让我一下子感受到大自然的鬼斧神工。只见这石林,峭壁万仞,石峰嶙峋,似千军万马,又似古堡围城,像飞禽走兽,又似人间万物,无不惟妙惟肖,栩栩如生,构成一幅神奇活现,巍然壮观的天然画卷。环顾四周,是一个个形态似剑状,塔状,蘑菇状的连片出现的石柱群,远望如树林。于是,人们望物生意,把这奇异的石柱群称之为石林吧!我们来到一座亭子上,从这里环视四周,整个大石林尽收眼底。看着高低起伏,气势恢弘的石峰,真有“一览众山小”之感。

随后,我们游览了秀丽的小石林,当看到阿诗玛的化身石时,我心头一震,几乎要热泪盈眶。美丽的撒尼族姑娘阿诗玛定格成千年万年不朽的形象,让人长久叹息。阿诗玛,与其化成石像在这里孤独地守望千年,何如伏在爱人的肩头痛哭一声?

西双版纳,一个充满诱惑力的名字,是我早就魂牵梦萦的地方。

走进西双版纳,扑入视野的尽是蓊蓊郁郁的绿:墨绿、翠绿、草绿、嫩绿、橄榄绿、鹅黄绿……构成了一个地地道道的绿色王国。

婆娑起舞的椰子树,高大挺拔的棕榈树,亭亭玉立的槟榔树,翠盖华裳的芭蕉树,硕果累累的芒果林,婀娜多姿的凤尾竹……。或峥嵘,或秀逸,让人目不暇接,留恋在异乡神奇的胜景之中。那数不尽的色彩斑斓的奇花异卉,簇簇团团闪着花光散着花霞,在这蓝蓝天宇下争奇斗妍。雨后,版纳又平添几分妩媚,红的,紫的,淡粉的、橘红的、嫩黄的……。轻轻飏飏的花雨,色彩愈加艳丽。满目山水融情,花潮叠伏。大自然是这样多彩、温馨、雄浑,并且慷慨造福于人类。我由此真切地领悟着“人与自然”这个永恒主题中蕴涵的和谐之义。当我行进在野象谷的羊肠小径中,当我兴致勃勃地坐着悠悠荡荡的缆车漂浮在热带雨林的绿海之上,脚下是莽莽苍苍的原始森林,满目青翠,寥廓恢宏,令人心旷神怡,感觉和云南这个植物王国融为了一体。

这次到了云南,我才真正明白“彩云之南”美名的来历。高原的云是多姿多彩的,休憩于风的影子里。云南的诗意,写在如风如水如云彩的文字里。云南之行,像去赴一场彩云的盛宴。 “行到水穷处,坐看云起时”,在云南的每一天,只要抬头望天都会欣赏到各式各样的云彩:有大朵大朵厚实严密的堆积云;也有絮絮铺满一天的羽毛云;有一丝丝挂在天边的;也有如牡丹花般在头顶盛放的,什么样的形态都有,而且低的让你觉得触手可及。“白衣苍狗变浮云”,每次都让你忍不住大声惊叹,惊叹造物主的神奇!

云南之旅,是在自然怀抱中的一次深呼吸。绿色云南、花雨云南,诗画云南,歌舞云南,你的绰约风姿,你的窈窕倩影,让人目眩神迷,让人沉静如水,激情似火,让人沉醉不醒。作为自然之子,我的心是旷野的鸟,在你的眼中找到蓝天。今生何时,再能梦回彩云之南,攀上玉龙雪山更高处,徜徉于丽江的古雅街巷,泛舟洱海……。

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